Thursday, November 20, 2008

Back in Moshi and Kim/Dave's Holiday party

Hey - Kim - will look forward to the holiday open house!!

Back in Moshi after the Zanzibar trip. BTW - Air Tanzania which I used to go to Zanz....Hamis (my driver) told me it stands for Any Time Cancel (not sure where the C comes in ...)

I was supposed to leave on an 8am flt; arived at 6am for shuttle to airport; no show; flight canceled; almost canned the trip....and on the way back, the flt was at least 1 1/2 hrs late...and the airport in Zanz was pretty strange/ Get this: after the Muslim women took my backpack thorugh he security they asked for a tip!!! and in the restroom, one of them followed me around turning on the faucet for me etc...and of course expected a tip.....

OK - this part is supposed to be about Moshi - I really like this town - have been here long enough so I know my way around, I can converse a bit in Swahili, I recognize people - and they recognize me...anybody with light skin and hair sort of stands out here...

staying at backpacker hotel - 7 bucks a night , breakfast incl.....and the staff are actually pretty competent and helpful. I also like the second floor restaurant that opens out ot the street so I can look at all of the activity while I'm having breakfast: men running downhill after huge carts loaded with produce or grain, women in their so colorful clothing carrying stuff on their heads; but of course this is a pretty big town - along with these sights are cars, daladalas (local buses with people packed in and hanging off the sides), bicycles - a lot of people use bikes here - , animals, people selling fruits on the sidewalk - and the everpresent seamstresses with their sewing machines set up onthe streets
time running out onthis session; will post the rest later I guess - but I will be home soon anyway..

so maybe I shoudl just mentione that i spend the last 2 days back at my school - finishing up a project that I started with t he kids cpl wks ago...they are doing their exams now, so not so much teaching going on...but the projects came out great! will show you the photos...
I took my preform 1 students for a walk - or maybe they tooke me for a walk - they wanted to show me the river - it was beautiful - in the really lush forest...we had fun running/walking, talking in Eng/Swahili.... I'm telling you - it doesn't take much to thrill these kids

it was hard to say good bye to everybody - and everyone at school and in TZ in general aways says karibu tena- welcome again - come back - when are you coming back...and the thing is they are really sincere - as I said before - some of the sweetest people you will ever meet.

Back from Zanzibar

Best experience in Stonetown: Taarib music at the Cultural Music Club. It was sort of like going to the Elks club - there were a bunch of old guys wearing those Muslim hats, playing dominoes...upstairs in a big public looking bldg....sat and waited for a while till the appointed time and all these musicians appeared...they were really good!!! I mean good! Apparently they have performed all over the world; the music is a combination of African/Arab; included singing and dancing - and audience participation of course...and I gathered these performances are just like a practice - free to the public. It was great - Marsh, Mark, Glen - this reminded me a bit of Faado in Portugal.....started out sounding a bit dark, but really got lively

later...
This has to be one of the most weird and exotic places I've seen....and in some cases pretty dilapidated...and a bit sad.... I shouldn't start out on a negative note ...but I think that just because a country is poor it doesn't have to be trashy and unkempt...for instance a museum in Stonetown (old part of Zanzibartown) had some pretty interesting stuff housed in an enormous old Arab Palace called the House of Wonders - well the House of Wonders has seen better days. So many people are out of work in this country - if the government spent less on their own material advancement and put some people to work on the infrastructure and just general tidying up, this would be a small step in t he right direction....

You see so many people just hanging out on the street; I suppose at home they are just hanging out in front of the tv - but since everyone doesn't have tv - and it's warm out side......

So - on the positive side - I spent a night and day at Kendwa onthe Northeast coast at a place called SUnset Bungalows - inexpensive - huge, right on the beach - amazingly beautiful beach..couldn't stop taking picutres - everything looks like a post card. got up early and walked the beach then swam for quite a while and had breakfast (incl wiith rm) on the beach; Wiseman (yup that's his name) came over and gave me his spiel about snorkeling so I went out with him and the boat "captain"....got a bit queasy after a while from the rolling wave action ,but it was pretty nice....

Back on the beach I got a massage and pedicure from Rosie ...all for about 20 bucks.....

Sitting at the beach restaurant having some food in the evening and listening to some arabic sounding music ....it was like "I guess we're not in Kansas anymore Toto" (ok Maine , but you get the point; things are just so different here)....it did remind me a bit though of the first time we went to Mex...before the Maya Riviera got so crowded; this place was sooo mellow and quiet - and the people so friendly - just like the rest of TZ!

So - next day in stonetown I did the obligatory spice tour - whihc was pretty interesting for a nerd like me - but really not all that exciting - what can you expect..it's horticulture....
anyway - someone is getting spioces fo r Christmas...
Next lunch at a stonetown rest - really good spiced rice and kuku (chicken) chickens are everywhere in this country btw, I think t here are more chickens than people...

Tour of Stonetown, finished off with a beer on the balcony of the Africa House Hotel.Old style African Hotel as you would imagine it....ocean view, veeerrry hot on the balcony Mitch you would like the nice hotels in this town, but probably not the Jambo Guest House where I stayed for cheap; nice view about 3 feet across the very narrow street of the neighbors...but anyway - it was clean, safe, incl breakfast - and there were some other Americans there...

Met a few intersting people along the way - Hamis, Haji...very few women around it seems and since Zanz is primarily Muslim, they are all swaddled in the Muslim garb.....















Saturday, November 15, 2008

Zanzibar

So - leaving tomorrow for cpl of days in \Zanzibar; hope all is well with everyone. Thanks for checking in...

Kili Jrnl: Day 7 Back to Moshi

After a good night's sleep, up early, breakfast and a 3 hour hike to Mweku gate where climbers sign out - and record their summit - and get an official certificate. This is definitley going to be framed and displayed proudly!!

Oh - forgot to mention that Godfrey and the "crew" sang the Kilimanjaro song just before leaving camp. It was so cool! Wish I could have recorded it! But I do have all of the words written down ( Swahili of course)

RIde back to Moshi; checked out Godfrey's Tanzanite connection (not convinced that I need to buy Tanzanite - it's pretty expensive - but maybe...) Got tips taken care of - more than I was planning on of course - after spending a week with these peple and realizing what a tough job they do - you figure you should give them as much as you can ( and I knew Mitch would encourage me to be generous - as he always is in situations like this)

Back at Keys hotel - a much needed shower, beer and sandwich.....best tasting beer I've ever had!

Day 6: Summit - Uhuru

Starting at midnight; so anxious I hardly slept; besides there was so much noise coming fromsome nearby tents; thought someone was getting sick; and the wind was pretty strong and kept buffeting the tent....aaarrrggghhhh!!!

So - in a word: the experience was INTENSE!!! ANd I have to say: not fun!!!

4 hours to Stella Point; probably should have taken 5; but we got into a rythm and it seemed that I felt better when I kept moving;felt alittle dizzy when I stopped...

My heart was hammering with the effort of pushing the blood around fast enough to get air to all the cells!!! I have never inhaled so deeply for so long to get so few oxygen molecules. Felt ok at Stella point - almost the top - continued on to Uhuru - another 45 min - on the way felt dizzy ... and actually contemplated turning around, but pressed on...glacier to left and crater to the right...amazing to look at, but sightseeing was not the number 1 priority at this point. Though the sight of the lights of Moshi town juxtaposed against the eerily lighted glacier was ...distracting....
(think I already mentioned some of this in my first post about the climb - so apologies for repetition)

anyway - summit obligatory photo - and we are offf to get some "fat air"; short cut to the bottom gets us down fast - but a visual feast on the way - with the sun rising behind a silouetted Mawenzi.....We slide down through sandy talus...pretty easy on the knees!

Back at camp at 7am....supposed to sleep.....of cours that's not happening. From the camp we have a great vantage point to watch as other climbers descend....many do not make it all the way to Uhuru....

After a great "brunch" prepared by the fabulous Yusuf, we are on the march again to begin our descent; about 3 hrs hiking through alpine desert and moor land brings us to the edge of the rain forest again at Mweku camp. A brilliant double rainbow is displayed above the camp! Now I nap for cpl of hours and check in with other climbers to see how they did. A few of us agree to set up a snapfish account to share photos. Have dinner and go to sleep at 8pm.

Kili Jrnl: Day 5: Karanga to Barafu

A very good day. Woke to great views of Mount Meru and Moshi valley and Lake Manyara....Started off a bit after 8; no rain so far. So we got some great views and more conversation. Karl and Ryoko walked with us quite a bit. Looking at the great rock formations and trying to explain some of them to Godfrey - also attempting to explain the concept of being a NERD (about geology or anything else)...first of all this word seems extremely difficult to pronounce ...it comes out sounding like noirdey when the Tanzanians try to say it..and then the concept itself is pretty much alien to them I think, but they gather that because I like looking at rocks and plants etc, I qualify for nerd status.

Arrived at Barafu - the "base camp" for the summit hike tonight. Spectacular place. Our tents are pitched on a high ridge - 15,000 ft. and we see Mawenzi Peak, a slatey 16,000 ft mtn, to the east and of course KIBO to the north - looking very challenging! and all around the most stunning landscape....

We have a few hours to hang out and enjoy the sunshine and views Karl, Ryoko and the Dutch kid, Christian...another Dutch couple, WIllem and Leike, but I'm feeling anxious and antsy. GOdfrey sends me up the ridge for "practice" and I feel better ; I'm feeling like I can do this; all I have to do is breathe and keep walking.....

Isaya goes up the ridge with me. A few days ago I got out my IPOD shuffle and passed it around to the crew; they really liked it. Today Isaya is listening to it while we climb up the ridge. He really likes the Cars!! and David Bowie!!

So - we are supposed to sleep for a few hours and then go to the summit at midnight by the full moon!!! I am so anxious I can't sleep!!

WTF

Hey Marsh and Cara - was that in reference to a party?? don't remember exactly what I said....but if there's anything happening you are most definitley invited!! I am really anxious to see all of you.

Friday, November 14, 2008

Kili Jrnl - Day 4

Barranco to Karanga; sent birthday text to Evan - wonder if he got it...
Cleared off during night. It's a good thing I get up to pee - there are some great views and they look spooky at night. So - day started off beautifully. I had high hopes that we might forego the rain....Started up the Barranco Wall - a steep vertical ascent and the clouds started building...

2:30 now - and still raining! Talked with some boys in the porter's hut; that doesn't last long with my limited Swahili - but people here seem to appreciate that you try and communicate. They were having ugali and samaki (ugali -a very stiff corn porrridge - a staple - and tiny little dried fish called I think dagu) Walked around looking at rocks and plants - talked with Carl and Ryoko - he is reading THE STATE OF AFRICA - definitely need to put that on my reading list when I get home. Went to cook tent for a few minutes to take some pix of the "chef" at work - but it was so foggy in there with the cooking going on and all of the humidity in the air that my camera just fogged up... yup - this pretty much sucks - at the moment
Walked around some more - looking at rocks and plants - what else!? some elaborate cairns. Can see outline of nearby ridges and gorges through swirling mist - and hear birds..

Finished trashy book ~1 that I picked up at the CCS house just before leaving. Starting # 2 - Riding the BUs WIth My SIster ....bought a tshirt - can you believe someone is selling tshirts up here!!! feeling anxious aout summit day - tomorrow at midnight...

Kili Jrnl - Day 3

High point today - Lava Tower - 15,100 ft; slept at 12, 295 ft ( climb high sleep low for altitude adjustment) Walking from 8:30 to 2:30 - Shira Plateau Camp to Barranco site. Weather starts out warm and sunny

Felt the elevation a bit today. Was carrying more in my pack than the days before. BUt overall felt pretty good. Alpine desert and moorland. Unearthly landscape. Weird plants. Had lunch at lava Tower. Talking - again with the German/Jap/UK people (I'm the only American around ) - one of them reminded me that the Earth's circumference is larger at the equator and thus might make the "actual elevation" greater at the summit...funny - I had read about this -but forgot about it - and just last week I was teaching this to my kids at the TZ school!!

Climbed a ways up the Lava Tower; hail started ; came down; the rest of the hike was pretty much downhill - back to just a little higher elev than last night's site.

Raining ...for last hr or so of hike...still raining; we seem to be in a valley so I'm wondering if it will clear..Nimechoke (I'm tired)

Up around midnight to go pee....again - the sky is perfectly clear - and the moon is illuminating the mountain - everything is so still - I feel like I'm the only thing alive out here (ok - if I ignore all of these other tents)

Weather pattern seems to be - clear at night and morning - then cl0uds moving in for afternoon...not bad really I canimagine how hot it would be other wise....

Kili Jrnl - Day 2

Up around 6am - clear and beautiful; rising sun is intense! Talked briefly with guy from Holland (note - at this point I can't even remember this conversation - but I wrote it down so it's included) Breakfast - up to Shira Hut today - on Shira Plateau which used to be the highest peak before it collapsed. A nice pole pole walk leaving rain forest - entering moorland - like another planet with exotic plants and volcanic rock formations.
Talked a lot with Godfrey - am trying to get some Swahili practice...but he speaks pretty good English. He was telling me bout the situationwith porters - working conditions etc. Also told me about a ripoff by some Brazilian guy whoe spent the week on the hike and somehow after trying several cards just couldn't seem to get any money out of his bank for tips.... (I can just hear Glen's comments on this one)

SOme trail songs - started to teach Godfrey and Isaya - the Bud Leavitt Song - and also doing a Swahili version... I love to go a-wandering....Ninapenda kwenda kutembea tembea...


At Shira Plateau Camp , 12, 600 ft. High point today was 14, 000 ft. Felt strong, no headache (that's one of the first signs of reaction to altitude) Lots of interesting rocks!! Rested read, walked around. Pretty dismal and spooky - we are in a cloud!!. Talked with the German/Japanese cpl again and a guy from the UK - broke up the monotony a bit....
Clouds lifted to an amazing view of the plateau with Kili on the horizon - looming - looking pretty intimidating!!!

Kili Journal Day 1

For those of you who are really interested I'll post my journal that I kept during the week; be warned - it's a bit random - just made some entries each day ; sentence structure may be absent...

Day 1

Pick up at Keys Hotel by Guide and porters Did a few errands on the way - extra batteries, etc. Bought some peanuts from a vendor - theft and misunderstanding - it was funny - (you'll have to ask me about this one) Shared some food with the porters while trying to get all of the names. Very muddy road on the way to Machame gate - really wondered if we would make it; some vehicles didn't and some climbers had a cpl extra km to hike ...
Got started on the trail through rain forest - very beautiful...only 6 miles today. Talked with German/Japanese couple along the way - Carl and |Riyoko. Some rain - enough to put on rain clothes - raining pretty hard as we arrive at the first campsite - Machame. Dinner - spaghetti ..
I'm a little overwhelmed at the amount of equipment they bring along - for one person - after backpacking and trying to take as little as possible this seems ridiculous!!
Slept -pretty well - after lying there for a while feeling anxious - can I really do this?

Kilimanjaro!!

Just back from a week on the mountain. Don't even know where to start!!! SO I guess I'll start at the (almost) end: Uhuru Peak at 19, 000+ ft at 5am on \Thursday morning! I have never passed so much air through my lungs for so little oxygen!!! Shall we say the air was a bit thin!! Polepole was definitely the word (slowly slowly - it's the only way you can go - even Mike Boucher would have to slow down!!) We began the summit climb at midnight under a full moon which lit our way so well that we never even turned on our headlamps. Reached Stella point overlooking the crater at 4am, then walked another hour to reach the highest point: Uhuru. Along the left as we walked was the Reitman Glacier - illuminated by the moonlight and looking as though it had its own internal light - absolutely unearthly!! In fact the entire landcape during the whole week made me feel like I was an another planet. Wish I could post pics...but I've almost given up on that at this point...it just takes too long. Anyway - it's an amazing mountain!! \Mitch - you will be surprised to know that when I came down from the summit I was so wiped out (after not sleeping the night before and being unable to sleep after) that I was feeling like I've seen enough of mountains for quite some time. After some sleep my enthusiasm has returned however!! :)

Mark and Glen - you would have enjoyed "my team": the porters, cook and guide who accompanied me through the whole trip: Pdiddy, Yusuf, Yasin, Godfrey ..
Kim F - and Rita - Many times throughout the week I wished you were there. Being a solo climber was fine - met some interesting folks along the way - but missed my "tent buddy".

Kim F and Maz - The 100 mile WIlderness is now officially in second place for the "hardest thing I've ever done"
- and Kathy and Kim H - I'm really ready for a party now!! Let's get together soon when I get home!

Wednesday, November 5, 2008




Wed - Arusha and Rwanda Tribunal

Last night we all had dinner at "Crisp Burger" what a name !! But the place was ok. There was a troup of African dancer/singers who were just awesome!! Amazing energy - drumming, singing dancing - everyone got into the act. SO much fun!!

Great morning at school. I'm actually teaching my pre-from 1's the same things that I usually teach my freshmen!! Glad to be doing this in stead of English!! Not my thing...

I started the Form 3 Bio students on a project yesterday. I was amazed when I arrived this morning - they were all done - and all done beautifully!! They are making some "visual aids" for Biology (of whihc the school has none) I thought it would be good to try and leave soemthing that could be used by the teachers and the students. Going to try and frame them up a bit and hang them. Mr Moschi seemed quite pleased with the project - he wants me to take pictures of the kids with the projects - to give them some recognition.

A bunch of the kids are also writing letters for students at MHS......will get MHS students to write back. The old penpal thing.

Mr Jumba's mother died last weekend. I was surprised that he talked about it. He has become more talkative and friendly. Sad about his mom..

Everyone excited about the election today...

This afternoon we all piled in the Mzungu Dalla Dalla (our van) to go to Arusha where the Rwanda Tribunal has been taking place. We were supposed to actually be able to watch the trial that's going on but they had a closed session today...a bit disappointing but we still learned a lot about the trials. Too much to post here...

tried again witht he pix aaarrrggghhh think the connection is just too slow; but I'm going to try one more time....

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

thanks for the posts - good to hear from you..
working on the pictures - know how to do it - just keeep running into technial issues...
later

Monday, November 3, 2008

Octoberfest in Moshi

Saturday - didn't do much except laundry and stuff in the morning- went into town and met up with Mary Lenkai - teaher at St Theresia where I am volunteering. We went to her place - on the way picked up sugar cane and coke - talk about a sugar buzz. It sure was interesting to see the "compound" where she lives....a series of small rooms arranged around a concrete center areas. I would say her room was maybe 10x10.... We sat and talked and at the sugar cane and drank the coke and looked at some photos of hers...a friend from next door - Jane , also from Kenya stopped by... I helped Mary fold clothes and sweep out the common area...Later we went to a local spot for some dinner -mostly rice...and then went to Octoberfest....what can I say about that!? WHen we arrived the song that was playing was YMCA!!! aarrgghh.. Lots of mzungus (white people) there, but equal number of locals.....pretty universal scene I guess - first ever Octoberfest.. One of our young CCS volunteers - Nick from Mass - a really nice kid - came in second in the beer drinking contest. His technique was good. haha
anyway - we just had a cpl of beers and our CCS curfew is 11pm - so we almost missed seeing "Obsession" the all girl group from Uganda. They were a bit like the Spice Girls of Africa I think....

ok - more later - my time is almost up